E-bikes are the fastest-growing category in cycling, and also the most poorly explained. Every ad shouts about watts and torque; almost none tells you what actually matters.
Here's what matters:
1. Motor type
- Mid-drive: the motor sits at the bottom bracket and drives the cranks. Feels natural, climbs well, better weight distribution. This is what serious e-bikes use.
- Hub-drive: the motor is in the rear or front wheel. Cheaper, simpler, but feels less natural on hills.
For commuting and trail riding, mid-drive is worth the extra cost.
2. Motor power — real vs. peak
E-bikes quote two numbers: - Nominal (sustained): typically 250W in Europe, 500W–750W in the US. - Peak: 2–3× the nominal, used only for short bursts.
Marketing focuses on peak because it sounds impressive. What you feel on a long climb is the nominal.
3. Torque
Torque (in Nm) is what actually determines how the bike climbs. Look for: - 40–60 Nm: commuter / mild hills - 60–80 Nm: mixed terrain, cargo, steeper hills - 80+ Nm: loaded cargo, very steep terrain, heavy rider
A 60 Nm mid-drive will out-climb a 90 Nm hub-drive every time.
4. Battery and range
Battery capacity is in Watt-hours (Wh). Typical ranges: - 400–500 Wh: 30–50 miles - 500–700 Wh: 50–80 miles - 700+ Wh: 80+ miles (or long distances with less assist)
Range depends on: - Assist level (Eco vs. Turbo) - Rider weight - Terrain - Weather (cold drains faster)
The listed range is usually for the lowest assist setting on flat ground in good weather. Plan for about 60% of that in real conditions.
5. What actually matters
For a first e-bike: - Mid-drive motor (Bosch, Shimano, Brose, Yamaha) - 500–625 Wh battery - 60–75 Nm torque - Hydraulic disc brakes (you're carrying more weight — this matters) - A brand with a service network — e-bike motors need specialist support
Everything else — apps, integrated lights, smart features — is nice-to-have.
Ready to shop?
Browse our e-bike selection, or message a local shop through their listing to ask what they recommend for your commute or terrain.